In honor of the CMPLXN debut, I reached out to Nayamka of @Labeautyologist and we talked about her top skin care tips. Back in 2020, Nayamka and I worked on her 20 Do's & 20 Don'ts advice guide. For more guidance, you can check out that booklet and learn even more.
Cleanse the face for 60 seconds, with fingers only. This allows the ingredients in the cleanser enough time to interact with the skin on a deeper level. The result is softer, less congested, more even toned skin.
2. Chemical Exfoliants
Enzymes and acids dissolve the bond between the skin cells to encourage skin shedding or “desquamation”. Fruit enzymes like papain & bromelain are perfect for beginners. Salicylic acid for acne & oily skin. Glycolic Acid for superficial fine lines & texture. Lactic acid for hyperpigmentation, sensitive, dry & combination skin.
3. Double Cleanse
Think of it as “taking the day off” -- pollution, SPF, makeup, dust -- it’s got to go. Two cleanses is ideal for the deep pore cleansing of all skin types. Nighttime is the perfect time to double cleanse. First, using an oil based cleanser, or natural oil, massage oil onto a dry face, following the #60SecondRule (or longer!). This breaks down sebum on the skin. Rinse, then follow with a foaming cleanser, using the #60SecondRule again. This removes all traces of impurities in the most gentle way possible.
Protecting your skin against UV Rays is imperative for skin health. UV rays cause 90% of aging by damaging collagen tissue. UV rays activate a melanin response in the skin, so its mandatory for treating hyperpigmentation. SPF should also be worn inside & all year round, because UVA-rays penetrate windows and clouds. SPF 30-50 is ideal.
5. Oily skin needs hydration, too.
OILY SKIN NEEDS WATER, TOO! Most oily skin is also dehydrated skin. When the skin lacks water, healthy barrier function is impaired, and the oil glands will work overtime. To reduce oil production, always use a hydrating toner, serum, and/or a gel-like moisturizer.
6. Apply thinnest to thickest
Watery-like products like toners and essence are always applied first because they absorb super quickly. Follow with any serum, ideally a hydrating serum to help carry actives deeper into the skin, since the skin is more permeable when damp. Next, apply any active serums, creams or gels. Gel moisturizers are water based, so those go next, then heavy creams. Oils are last because they don’t mix with water. It’s okay if you don’t use all these products. It’s just a guide. :)
7. No dangerous kitchen DIYs
No coconut oil (can lead to breakouts). No lemon juice. No baking soda. No sugar or salt scrubs. All of these can lead to damage in your moisture barrier Manuka honey is one of the few safe kitchen products safe for the face. Tumeric and yogurt or milk are popular, however there are few, if any conclusive studies on their effectiveness.
8. No sleeping in makeup
Sleep time is the most important time for the skin. Makeup impedes the process of nutrients getting to the skin, leading to premature aging. All makeup left on for long enough will clog pores. The skin may become dehydrated causing future inflammation. Plus, you can’t apply skincare when your foundation is covering the face.
9. No over exfoliating
While it is important to remove dead skin cells from the surface, sometimes, we do too much. Always gradually introduce exfoliants and retinol into your skincare routine. Give your skin at least 3 days off per week from any exfoliating actives. Signs of over-exfoliation? And overall tight feeling, shininess, fine lines in the skin when relaxed, and/or persistent tiny bumps and general inflammation all over the skin.
10. Reduce stress
When stress is high, the body produces more of a hormone called cortisol. Inflammation thrives with elevated levels of cortisol. Stress management may mean different things to everyone: exercise, spa days, sleeping in, turning your phone off and hiding out in a bookstore for the day -- whatever you choose to do, know that its very important for the skin, and overall health, to manage stress.
For more Nayamka Roberts-Smith, you can subscribe to her Youtube channel or follow her on Instagram.